[WHISTLER LOGS]
October 2010
A few stops before returning to Malaysia
After leaving North America by plane in September, I stopped for a few days in Iceland on my way to Europe.
I was flying Air Iceland and the cost was the same to stop in Reykjavik or not to stop. So why not! Located a few miles south of the Arctic Circle, it is quite a special place. No trees, a magical light and a very modern city. I had contacted some Icelandic sailing friends that I had met in Borneo the year before and they put me in touch with Magi, a local sailing aficionado. Magi and 2 of his friends took me out one afternoon and we toured and sample Reykjavik and its surrounding. The highlight of my culinary experience was the traditional shark meat with the “black death” local drink. A very foul smelling shark meat since it was marinated for over one year in its own fluid. Thankfully it did not taste as bad as it smelled. What struck me in Iceland, besides the protest against the austerity measures initiated by the government after the 3 major banks collapsed 2 years ago, was their language, Norse. Icelandic has not changed much in so many centuries, that Icelanders can still read the original Viking chronicles written a millennium ago. Impressive. The local Viking wax museum was also interesting, recounting with words and images the story of Iceland, Greenland, Eric the Red and Leif the Lucky.
After Iceland, up to London for one day then on to a very cheap Ryan Air flight to Tenerife, Canaries Island to visit my good friend and many times crewmate, Pepe received me with open arms and took many days off from his advertising business to show me the island, initiate me to Parapenting as well as climb the 12,000 feet central mountain, El Teide, The tallest in Spain. But my favorite times were the many nights we spent reminiscing about all times and dreaming about the future at his friend Argentinean Parilla (Steakhouse). The meat and the wine were outstanding and very affordable!!
After 2 weeks bothering Pepe, it was time to get back to my floating house in Malaysia. Back to London then on to a 12 hours flight to Kuala Lumpur. The next day, a short flight to Tioman Island to be finally reunited with Whistler, still afloat and looking pretty good considering the 5 months of solitude she must have felt. Thankfully, Martin and Nona, my good friends and Marina neighbors, looked after her every 2 weeks, airing her out and starting the engine for an hour or so.
The only noteworthy surprise was the 3 newborn kittens I found in the V-Berth with no sign of the mother. They could not have been more than 2 days old since they could barely open their eyes, let alone stand up on their own. I pondered what to do? I waited for the mother to come back but no such luck. I must have scared her. I declined my friend Matt offer to drown them (he thought there were too many cats on the island) and finally found a local Muslim woman to take them in. The night I gave them up, they decided to return and keep me awake most of the night with her motherly whining. Why did she not come back earlier? Sorry my Dear but you are too late!! The kitten were well looked after anyway since every noon I cycled past her restaurant, the adoptive mother could be seen feeding them with a small milk bottle, surrounded by 4-5 wide eyes kids. A very beautiful scene!
After 10 days spent in Idyllic Tioman, it was time to hit the road. So south I went towards Singapore.